Surroundings
Las Merindades
The towns listed below are all part of the Merindades.
The Merindades is an administrative region, comarca in Spanish, in the north of Burgos. Burgos is a province of the Autonomía Castilla y León.
The Merindades is divided into 27 municipalities. What is special about this area is its diversity. Each municipality has villages, churches and beautiful nature with its own character. We have a number of routes that visit the different sights in the region.
Because of its convenient location, you can combine your stay in the Merindades with a visit to some great, interesting cities in the province of Burgos, in the Rioja and of course in the Basque Country














VALLE DE TOBALINA
The municipality of Valle de Tobalina is located in the south-eastern part of the Merindades. A beautiful, very quiet valley to explore. With an area of 157 km2 and over 1,000 inhabitants, the population density is seven people per square kilometre.
Casa La Sonrisa is located in Hedeso, a largely abandoned village on a hill in this valley. From the house you can make several walks. There is even a GR route running past the house. In the car it takes 5 minutes to get to Pedrosa de Tobalina, a village with two bars and a waterfall, or the other way to Quintana Martin Galindez with a number of bars and restaurants as well.
FRIAS
A visit to Frías, less than 10 km away, is a “must” when on holiday in the Merindades. The medieval town is built against a steep mountainside. You will find a medieval bridge over the Ebro, streets with pretty porticoes and the remains of a castle to visit. Frias was recently named one of the 20 most beautiful villages in Spain.
OÑA
A beautiful village less than half an hour away. Traditionally the seat of the region’s ecclesiastical power. As a result, the village has kept a beautiful monastery and church. This complex can be visited and is a surprise even for those not so interested in ecclesiastical art. Accessible, medieval art and, for the real enthusiast, headphones with English-language information. The monastery garden, free entry is also worth a stroll.
POZA DE LA SAL
Another 20 minutes further on, Poza de la Sal is perched against the hill. Towering over the village is the old castle, which is freely accessible and offers great views of the surroundings. The village gets its name from the salt pans that were in use here until 20 years ago to collect the salt-rich water from the surrounding hills. These ‘pozas’ can be visited and, with the castle and the village with its small leaning houses, are a fun destination. Guests often make a combination of Frias, Oña and/or Poza de la Sal in a day.
SALTO NERVION
“Monumento natural Monte de Santiago” is a nature reserve in the eastern Merindades close to the Basque province of Alava. A beautiful hiking area with an information centre. The highlight is the Salto de Nervión, a waterfall where the water plunges down some 300 metres. In the whole of Spain, there is no waterfall with a greater drop than this “Salto de Nervión”! The waterfall is located in an impressive gorge. In summer when the Nervión is dry, it is a special experience to walk through the dry riverbed carved into the rocks and watch the vultures swoop over you. You can walk through to where the water plunges down in winter and spring. A spectacular walk with incredible views as your reward. For many of our visitors, one of the highlights of their visit to Casa la Sonrisa.
You can also take one of the beautiful marked walks here, each with different beautiful views over the valley: on a clear day, you can see flocks of sheep in the depths and villages in the distance. Griffon vultures are eminently to be admired up close here. They nest in the rocks and sail in groups motionless on thermals along the gorge wall. In May and June, when the young are still in their nests, it is a beautiful sight to see the vultures throwing food to their young.
RIOSECO
The monasterio de Rioseco is a large ruined monastery and is hidden among the trees in the Ebro valley. The overgrown ruins of this medieval abbey were partially refurbished in 2011 by volunteers, “the Friends of Rioseco”. By “refurbished” we actually mean “tidied up”: debris has been removed and some paths have been cleared. It is a very nice place to wander around and imagine yourself in days gone by. Discover the crypts, the spiral staircases, the murals or the old ovens.
OJO GUAREÑA
Ojo Guareña is Spain’s largest cave complex. The 14 caves are connected by 100 kilometres of tunnels. However, only a small part is open to the public. Accompanied by a guide, you can visit this section and a real surprise awaits you at the end: a little church carved out of the rock with centuries-old frescoes of the life and suffering of Christ. The cave complex is currently being further opened to the public in phases. In 2018, a guided tour of more than three hours started…
PUENTEDEY
Puentedey is a village you cannot skip when you are in the Merindades. It is a small village built on a “natural bridge” under which a small river winds its way.
MEDINA DE POMAR
This historic town is the largest of the Merindades. Medina de Pomar is about 85 kilometres north of Burgos and about 80 kilometres south of Bilbao. A few medieval streets surrounding the robust castle give the town its own character. To see that, you have to go into the town because from the outside it looks like a modern place like so many in Spain. Medina de Pomar was protected as a fortress by a double wall since the Middle Ages. The current wall was the inner rampart and dates from the 14th century. The Arco de la Judería and Arco de la Cadena are two of the five entrance gates that once existed. Connected to the city wall is the Church of Santa Cruz, built between the 12th and 15th centuries. The big castle near the plaza Mayor with its sturdy towers is called the Alcázar de los Condestables de Castilla. Today, this 14th-century castle is the headquarters for the Museum of the Merindades, which displays the history of the city and the region, through documents, manuscripts, archaeological finds and other objects.
There are other interesting religious buildings in Medina de Pomar. The Monastery of Santa Clara, which dates from the same century as the Alcázar, the Monastery of Saint Peter and the Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Rosario.
The friendly green park is a good place for picnics and swimming.
Medina de Pomar’s population doubles in summer due to the many Basques who own second homes here. As a result, the central plaza Somovilla, where numerous bars are located, is always bustling. At the beginning of October, the festivities of Nuestra Señora de Rosario, the patron saint of Medina de Pomar, are held and there is a lot going on for ten days.
ORBANEJA DEL CASTILLO
Orbaneja del Castillo is located just outside the Merindades. This village is one of the most beautiful in the province of Burgos, located on the left bank of the narrow gorge of the Ebro. A beautiful route leads you to the village in the Valle de Sedano. At the edge of the village, steep rocky outcrops can be seen where vultures nest and circle. There are a few restaurants and bars, a beautiful waterfall and a small river flows through the village.
Cities
From Hedeso, you can easily visit a number of spend. The most important and also most interesting cities to visit are Bilbao, Burgos and Vitoria. Santander is a bit further away but is also definitely doable.
Bilbao
On the Basque Coast about 12 km inland is Bilbao (or Bilbo, in Basque), the largest city in the autonomous community of the Basque Country. It is also the capital of the province of Vizcaya. Hedeso is 80 km from here.
Through Bilbao runs one of the pilgrimage routes leading to Santiago de Compostela. It is one of five cities in the world with its own Guggenheim museum: since 1997, the Museo Guggenheim de Bilbao has been a tourist attraction of the first order.
On the right bank of the Nervión, a few minutes’ walk from the Guggenheim Museum, you will find the entrance to the Artxanda cable car, which goes up to Monte Artxanda, the so-called “lung of the city”. There are beautiful hiking trails and several first-class restaurants. From the Mirador (vantage point) at the top of this mountain, we can enjoy a comprehensive view of the city and the river, which everyone will always want to see again.
For more background information, click here.
Burgos
Burgos is the capital of Burgos province of the same name.
The Santamaria Cathedral is by far the most worth seeing in Burgos. read more….
Besides visiting this special cathedral, Burgos is a very pleasant, quiet city with numerous other museums, lots of greenery and a modern shopping area. A nice city, some 75 km from Hedeso, with the cathedral as the absolute highlight
Vitoria
Vitoria-Gasteiz (Basque: Gasteiz, Spanish: Vitoria) is the capital of the Spanish autonomía Basque Country and of the province of Álava. It is the second-largest city in the Basque Country after Bilbao. The city’s current name is an amalgamation of the Spanish and Basque names. Since 1983, the dual form has been officially used in both languages. In popular speech, people use either name.
Vitoria-Gasteiz is an important industrial centre. It has the second highest standard of living in Spain and is also the (so they say) greenest city in Europe because of its many parks, avenues and green areas.
Noteworthy in Vitoria are its many cultural centres and museums. Also, tourists coming to Vitoria have free access to use a bicycle and visit the museums. In the partially walled city centre, there is a beautiful cathedral (12th-14th century), currently being renovated but therefore even more interesting to visit, and several churches from the 15th century. In short, a beautiful green lively city with a monumental centre, nice shops and many terraces and other entertainment venues.